Kyrgyzstan, London, Etc.

As I noted a few posts back, Bambino and I are heading to Kyrgyzstan next week. Described just a few years ago in the New York Times as perhaps the "world's least well-known country," Kyrgyzstan is now increasingly in the Western news (the 2005 revolution, the US Airforce base, and a burgeoning contemporary art scene that is capturing the world's attention all contributing to a greater awareness about its politics and future), but I have to admit to having had no idea where it was before I met Bambino. Here's where it is.

Now, however, I'm totally obsessed with its incredible history and culture. Part of my obsession is due to my studying Kyrgyz, which is one of the most difficult undertakings I've ever tried (there's no gender, no articles, a wonderfully subjective sense of the past tense, and it's written in Cyrillic, for which there are at least 5 letters that look just like English but are pronounced entirely differently, a whole host of letters that look like mathematical symbols, and vowel sounds I can usually only make during dental surgery).

Geographically, Kyrgyzstan is 90% mountains---some of the steepest, most ruggedly gorgeous moutains on earth...here are some photos: 1, 2, 3.

As folks who were reading my political blogging a while back knew, I'm also obsessed with the history of Alexander the Great. If you've read of his conquests, then you know of the truly terrible time his army had fighting the hard-boiled horse-riding marauders before entering Afghanistan...yup, legend has it, those were the ancestors of modern-day Kyrgyz. In fact, exceptional horsemanship is among Kyrgyzstan's points of pride as a nation. Larger festivals include an ancient form of polo called "ulak tartysh," where opponents battle fiercely on horseback for a goat's carcass:

Yeah, the goat carcass thing is bit tough for me too. But that's not the only graphically different cultural adaptation I'll be making while there. Bambino's been cooking Kyrgyz food for me for years and while I love most of the dishes (plov, lagman, manti, etc.), there's a traditional feast in Kyrgyzstan in which a guest of honor is presented with the head of a sheep and expected to take the best parts for himself (the best parts widely considered the eyes, cheeks, ears, etc.). Let's just say I suspect I'll be tasting plenty of Kyrgyz vodka during that feast (just kidding, Bambino). The truth of the matter is, I would be so incredibly honored to be presented with this plate (and there's no guarantee a foreigner will be so honored), I might not be able to eat through my tears (yes, that's my story and I'm sticking with it). A Kyrgyz treat I'm actually looking forward to trying is "kumiz," Kyrgyzstan's national alcoholic beverage (essentially fermented mare's milk). You can't get it in the US, and with the new airline restrictions on liquids, I most likely won't be able to bring any back, so I'm getting my share while there.

After a few days in the capital, Bishkek, including attending the opening of the 3rd Bishkek Exhibition of Contemporary Art, we're heading into the mountains, where we hope to do some riding and possibly stay in a "yurta" which are still widely used by the nomadic people living in the mountains. I don't think we'll get a wireless signal up there, so bloggin will be light, to say the least.

After Kyrgyzstan, we're off to London (via Armenia) where we're participating in the Year 06 Art Project fair corresponding with Frieze. Some great US and Europen galleries are included, so do stop in if you're that side of the pond.

All of this information is preface to explaining that bloggin might be sporadic at best over the next few weeks. Bambino and I hope to take zillions of photos that we'll bore you with when we get back (Ed on a horse, Ed in a Yurt, Ed eating sheep eyes, you know, the same old holiday snaps). I will try to find an internet cafe I can blog from on occassion though, and I'll continue to blog up until we leave next Thursday, that is if we get all the shopping done in time (he has a large family, this Bambino...I truly can't wait to meet them).